Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Monday, August 15, 2011

Chris in Europe!



I can’t believe I let it go this long. I’ve been meaning to document the journey with Chris ever since it happened in December. 



Chris was the only one of my American friends who was able to make a trip over to Europe while I lived there, and I’m so grateful to have had that experience! We decided to see Berlin, Prague, London and Edinburgh together.


I got myself to London on the day after Christmas (which, around those parts is known as ‘Boxing Day’) despite the copious amounts of snow covering Leipzig and the fact that the Straßenbahn (streetcar) wasn’t running and I got lost trying to walk to the train station, at the last moment admitting defeat and hailing a cab.

After walking about in London and enjoying the change in atmosphere (I left Germany covered in 2 feet of snow and landed in London to 45ºF temps) I headed to Heathrow Airport to pick Chris up. After the requisite excitement of welcoming a friend at the airport, we promptly realized Chris had left his brand new iPad behind on the plane.

Despite much hassle and due to some splendid serendipity, Chris managed to locate the iPad (thanks, fancy tracking apps on the iPhone!) and we took the Overground from Willesden to retrieve it from the police station in a sleepy little Borough called Watford Junction, where we found a fish ‘n’ chips and a pub that was showing a game of football.

London with Chris was great. We had loads of fun, visited museums (Natural History, Imperial War)

A bit of the Berlin Wall in London, Imperial War Museum.

and took in all the lovely sights (Westminster, Trafalgar Square, the South Bank of the Thames); 

Tower Bridge, London

Tower of London

Parliament, London


Trafalgar Square, London


Tchotchkes and souvenirs on Westminster Bridge, with a view of the London Eye.





but I feel like Chris’s best moments by far where when we visited the film museum and Chris came face to face with Dr. Who’s Tardis and the Doctor’s mortal enemies, the Daleks. 

Doctor Who fandom in full effect!




When we walked in to the room that housed the Dr. Who props, a look of joy spread across Chris face. Then there was the photo we snapped in the “Death Star”, with me as Darth Vader and Chris as Luke Skywalker. I even got to brandish a realistic looking light saber. Chris was like a kid in a candy store. We also found time to eat a deeeeelicious Indian meal 



and of course, make a day of it in Camden Town.


Unfortunately Chris became quite ill in our last days in London, and instead of coming along with me to experience Hogmanay (the New Year celebration) in Edinburg, he stayed behind at our hostess Kate’s flat to rest and attempt to bolster his immune system. He ended up having a pretty epic New Years celebration in London, from what he told me, but it was still a bummer to have to split up.

Our next adventure together was Berlin, which quickly became, like mine, one of Chris’s favorite cities. Berlin can be really easy to love, if you’re a certain type of person, which Chris and I both must be. After a day there I went back to Leipzig because I had classes, but Chris stayed on there until the night before we were meant to travel to Prague. He told me about a graffiti tour of Berlin he took that was offered by the hostel he stayed in. It sounded amazing and I'm still jealous that I didn't get to take it!

At the end of my school week we reconvened in Leipzig. Early Friday morning we departed Leipzig by train, heading to Prague. We arrived there around noon. and after a series of missteps in the train station

Main station in Praha (German for Prague)

(shady currency exchange, a thieving ticket machine,) we headed to the hostel we'd booked on the internet. When we got there after climbing many, many steep cobblestoned hills while lugging our heavy bags, we quickly realized, upon descending into a smoke-filled dungeon of a check-in/common room, bearing sunken, tattered chairs and a very potent cigarette reek, that we might not have the most pleasant stay there. It definitely seemed like the kind of place that a tourist might get their organs sliced out and put on the black market. A quick peep at the bedrooms upstairs (and furthermore, the bathrooms! Eugh!) and we were hightailing it out.

Chris used the recovered iPad to find us a hostel; we wound up at a place called the Czech Inn. That hostel was, especially by contrast: gorgeous, modern, clean, spacious and wonderful in every way-  especially in that it wasn’t much more expensive than organ harvesting nightmare we’d just escaped from! The dorms were bright and open, with pretty hard wood floors, the beds sported crisp, clean white linens, the bathrooms were well-lit and sparkling, minimalist with cool, sleek granite implements, and there was a bar downstairs that served a lovely continental breakfast in the morning and delicious Czech beer in the evening for only 20 Krone, which, if I’m not mistaken, is equal to about a euro.

Prague itself was, in my opinion, a bit overwhelming and intimidating. I was taken aback that I couldn’t make out ANYTHING in the Czech language. It is an unsettling feeling not to be able to read street signs or even just advertisements on the streetcar. We didn’t meet any Czech people, aside from the staff of both hostels, so I can’t really speak to the friendliness of the locals. We did make the acquaintance of a Canadian girl and some Australian boys, who we went out into the city with on our first night. I honestly don’t remember much except for shots that had been lit on fire, which are almost never a very good idea.

Prague itself, especially Old Town, was pretty breathtaking. 


Chris and I ascended the Tower and got a wonderful view of the city.



We saw Old Town, including the castle and the gorgeous cathedral nestled within it’s walls, from this high vantage point, and then we ascended the hills to visit the Castle on foot. Obviously we couldn't resist taking numerous jumping shots.


Another point of interest in Prague, The Charles Bridge, was as beautiful as it’s reputation boasts. There are loads of sculptures along it’s perimeter with Biblical themes, many of their hands, feet, or other brass bits rubbed to a shining, glinting gold from the Catholic pilgrims that come to touch and pray at the religious icons.


We then saw the Lennon Wall which, just a few steps past the grandeur of the Charles Bridge, is a rainbow-colored wall of graffiti; a place where locals had gathered in the oppressive days of communism for peaceful protest.


After Prague I headed back to Leipzig and soon we were both off on our separate ways, me to Buffalo for my cousin’s wedding and Chris back home to Seattle.

In all it was an epic adventure (practically Bill and Ted-worthy) and I’m really super glad Chris came to Europe to share it with me!

Monday, May 2, 2011

Onward and Westward!

From Florence we continued on to Pisa in our little black Ford Focus, carefully avoiding the expensive Superhighway marked on our map in blue. Despite taking the long way round, the drive was short, but unfortunately once we hit the outskirts of town we began to get lost. A few wrong exits, a few wrong turns, and we were pretty flustered. Finally we got some directions in very broken Italiglish and figured things out. When we arrived in the city, a chilly drizzle had begun to fall, but we piled excitedly out of the car to find The Leaning Tower (or, more correctly,The Tower of Pisa in the Piazza del Duomo) nonetheless.

We had parked the car near the bus station, and decided to seek guidance within. However, the lady behind the counter was less than thrilled to direct us, no maps were available and the Information Center she attempted to send us to was closed. Instead we did some clever manouvering, finding a map posted on a wall, photographing it and using the photo on my camera's screen as a map.

As we walked along the route, we unexpectedly and happily stumbled upon a GIGANTIC Keith Haring wall. Haring is one of my all time favorite artists, so this was nothing short of gasp-worthy for me. I stood in front of it, mouth gaping and entirely flushed with excitement, while the rain started to pour down on us. It was a really significant moment for me; the fact that we just happened to walk down this particular alleyway (it wasn't even a street, it was an alleyway!) and there happened to be a massive Haring mural was pretty flipping epic. After a few minutes appreciation and loads of photos, it was on to the final destination, the tower.





Along the way we encountered a book fair which was surrounded by plywood walls covered with really cool paintings. The book fair itself was inside of an open air market structure, whose vaulted ceilings were supported by wide rectangular columns with a floor and stairs made of grey marble.









After looking at our map and getting a better idea of our intended direction while under that shelter, we began to move on. We walked along the River Arno, encountering the beautiful, elegant and surprisingly tiny Gothic style church of Santa Maria della Spina. This delicate looking and ornate house of worship was originally built in the 1200's but was moved to higher ground to evade a threat of flooding in 1871. (Thanks wiki.)










Next we crossed a bridge over the Arno, and passed by the Orto Botanico de Pisa, which is Europe's oldest University botanical garden. We approached the Piazza del Duomo and saw in front of us the famous Leaning Tower, shrouded in a grey mist. It was unfortunate for my photographic purposes that we arrived in encroaching darkness and a thin drizzle. Most of my photos are fairly grainy and underexposed, as unfortunately I don't have a tripod.








After seeing the tower and taking the requisite silly/cheesy tourist pictures, we were headed back by bus to the place where we parked our car. After momentary panic and subsequent directions from a grandfatherly policeman conveniently situated steps from where we parked, we found the location of the hostel we had booked the previous day so as to avoid the Florence issue of having no place to stay. We checked into our hostel, ready to sleep as long as possible in order to wake up at 5 am the next morning for the journey to Rome.

Florence

Ok, sorry all, but we're going to go back to March now.  I feel like I really should document this Italy trip a bit, in case someone is remotely interested.

Mom, Annika and I journeyed from Venice to Florence in a lovely little rental car, which ironically (despite our predictions that it'd be 1. manual transmission and 2. a Smart Car or a Pugeot) ended up being a very American Ford Fiesta. The journey across Italy from easterly Venezia to westerly Firenze took about 4 hours and cost SEVENTEEN EUROS on the Italian "Superhighway." Which, in my opinion, (corny joke alert!) is highway robbery. However, the drive was straightforward and I think my mom had a pretty good time navigating the Italian roadway.

We arrived in Florence at about 10:30pm, and finding a hotel room turned out to be much more of a hassle than we expected. After we parked the car in an underground car park, we found ourselves walking around the city with our heavy bags for hours and asking for a room at nearly every hotel we passed (many of which had reception on the 3rd floor and no elevators.) At one point desperation set in, and we decided we weren't even concerned about price and were willing to lay down as much money as was necessary just so long as we found a place we could also lay our bags and bodies down.
We ended up, panting and exhausted at around quarter to three in the morning, at the Hotel Argentina, which lucky for us was still a low budget but also very lovely place near the center of town. 




After settling into the room, Mom and I made hitting the pub our first priority. (It had been a very stressful night!) Luckily there was a little spot called Pub il Trip per Tre right around the corner (thank you exasperated-overnight-hotel-clerk for the tip) that turned out to be kind of an 80's hair metal bar. Which was AWESOME. The bar owner, Guiseppe, came over to the table where Mom and I were enjoying our pints of Guiness and offered us free shots! Why? I DON'T KNOW! But it was great. I was drinking Guiness and a free shot in Florence with my rad mom, surrounded by rough old dudes with scraggly long dyed-black hair and leather jackets, and Guns and Roses "Crazy" was playing on the stereo. I'm hard pressed to think of a better scenario.

Next thing I knew, my alarm clock was greeting me, so after about four hours of sleep I sank into a hot bath at about 7:30 in the morning. The significance of the bathtub is this: when you're traveling on a very very small budget, you usually end up in places that have shared bathrooms (ie:hostels) but since this was a hotel (albeit a very, very affordable one) we had our very own bathroom IN OUR ROOM which we hadn't yet experienced and wouldn't again throughout the trip. Obviously I needed to make use of this!

The day in Florence whizzed by, and we made it a plan to leave the city around 4 pm for the short drive to Pisa and in order to get there before dark. 

We headed first to a flea market in a park along the river Arno (kind of a disappointment save the yummy breakfast of olives and cheese we bought from one of the lone food stalls) then took the city's street car back into the center to see the various lovely churches and cathedrals, including Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, Baptistry of Saint John, Santa Maria Novella and Basilica San Lorenzo. 

Santa Maria Novella
The architecture itself was awe inspiring, but when one takes into account that the buildings are made of gorgeous green and pink marble, one's perception of the majesty of such structures immediately skyrockets. The artistry, the beauty, the luxury of the materials, the perfection in execution... it's simply staggering. Interestingly, the facade of Santa Maria del Fiore was dismantled in the late 1500's and it wasn't until the late 1800's that the current facade was designed and completed.

Santa Maria del Fiore





 


Baptistry of St. John



Baptistry of St. John

Unfortunately having only a few daylight hours in the city made it impossible to see very much, and so, regrettably, we missed the Uffizi Gallery (which houses some of the most important Renaissance art in the world,) Ponte Vecchio (the oldest bridge in Florence) and, very sadly, Michelangelo's David.


Train station





Wearing the driving vest... for safety.

Soon after arriving (far too soon, unfortunately,) we left Florence and were on our way to the next destination; Pisa!

Friday, April 15, 2011

Venice

     The quiet waterways, the calm cobbled streets where above your head someones pastel-hued bed sheets sway gently on a clothesline, the narrow corridors that lead you over tiny bridges and past icons of the Virgin Mary to open unexpectedly into ancient courtyards where no soul lingers, where dusky light sweeps over everything.

     The relentlessly gorgeous agedness of it all, the unforgettable, palpable sense of history and humanity humming along without really considering its own implications.


















The impossible city refuses to be anything but deeply beautiful.